Battambang – Cambodia Lifestyle https://www.cambodialifestyle.com Discover Cambodia: Where Tradition Meets Modernity in Every Moment. Thu, 17 Oct 2024 03:12:21 +0000 en-US hourly 1 https://wordpress.org/?v=6.8.1 https://i0.wp.com/www.cambodialifestyle.com/wp-content/uploads/2024/02/cropped-cambodia-lifestyle-Square-1.png?fit=32%2C32&ssl=1 Battambang – Cambodia Lifestyle https://www.cambodialifestyle.com 32 32 224431033 How to Take the Ferry from Siem Reap to Battambang in 2024 https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/ferry-from-siem-reap-to-battambang/ Mon, 14 Oct 2024 04:46:06 +0000 https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/?p=13365

Photo: Responsible Travel

Cambodia offers some of the most scenic boat journeys in Southeast Asia, and the ferry from Siem Reap to Battambang is a perfect example. Winding through rivers, floating villages, and the iconic Tonle Sap Lake, this boat trip gives you a glimpse of rural Cambodian life from the water. 

Whether you’re looking for an adventure or simply want a change from bus travel, here’s everything you need to know about taking the ferry from Siem Reap to Battambang.

Booking Your Ferry Ticket

The first step is booking your ticket. Ferries from Siem Reap to Battambang are typically available during the wet season (from June to November), when the water levels are high enough for boats to make the journey. Tickets can be booked at many tour agencies around Siem Reap, or through your hotel or guesthouse. Prices range from $20 to $25 depending on the service and season. For more convenience, you can also check online platforms like BookMeBus for ferry ticket availability.

Departure Time and Location

The ferry departs early in the morning, usually between 6:30 AM and 7:00 AM. Be sure to arrive at the pier in Siem Reap on time to check in and secure a good seat on the boat. The pier is located just outside of Siem Reap, and most ticket agencies will offer a shuttle service to take you there. If not, tuk-tuks are readily available, but make sure to leave early enough to avoid delays.

For those looking to explore more of Siem Reap before heading to Battambang, check out our guide on things to do in Siem Reap to make the most of your time in the city.

The Ferry Experience: What to Expect

The ferry ride from Siem Reap to Battambang takes between 6 to 8 hours, depending on water levels and the time of year. While this might seem like a long journey, the incredible views make it worthwhile. The boat weaves through floating villages, offering you a glimpse into the unique way of life in these communities. You’ll see fishermen casting their nets, children paddling through the water, and homes perched on stilts that seem to float on the water.

However, the boat is basic. Don’t expect luxury seating—this is more about adventure than comfort. Bring a cushion or something soft to sit on, as the seats can be hard. There’s also limited shade on the boat, so bringing sunscreen, a hat, and plenty of water is highly recommended.

While the trip may be long, it’s an unforgettable journey through Cambodia’s waterways, and there are plenty of photo opportunities along the way. You can read about a similar journey on The Street Food Guy’s blog for more insights on what to expect.

Ferry from Siem Reap to Battambang

Photo: Angkor Express Boat Trip

Arrival in Battambang

After several hours on the water, you’ll arrive at the Battambang pier, which is located a few kilometers outside of the city. Tuk-tuks and motorbike taxis will be waiting to take passengers into the city center, which should cost around $2 to $3 depending on your negotiation skills.

Battambang itself is a charming city, known for its colonial architecture and laid-back atmosphere. It’s also home to some fantastic street food. Be sure to explore the local food scene once you arrive.

Best Time to Travel by Ferry

The best time to take the ferry from Siem Reap to Battambang is during the rainy season (June to November) when water levels are at their highest. During the dry season, the water levels can drop, and the journey may take longer or be canceled altogether. Be sure to check the current situation before planning your trip.

While it’s a bit of an adventure, the ferry ride offers a unique perspective on Cambodia’s rural life. If you’re the type of traveler who enjoys seeing the off-the-beaten-path aspects of a country, this ferry trip is well worth it. For more information on traveling through Cambodia, visit Cambodia Lifestyle.

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Visit Battambang: My recommended 2-day trip to Battambang Province! https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/trip-to-battambang-province/ Wed, 26 Jun 2024 07:56:23 +0000 https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/?p=11531

What a great name right? Battambang! I always loved the sound of that and the nearby province of Bantay Meanchey. Anyway, there’s more to these places than just the name, and today I’m explaining my recommended two-day trip to Battambang Province in Cambodia. 

Battambang is a city steeped in history and charm, and it offers a plethora of activities and sights that make it an unforgettable destination. Here’s a detailed account of my day, along with some tips for anyone planning to visit. Battambang is a great destination to visit all year round. Each season offers its unique charm, so you can plan your trip anytime without worrying about extreme weather conditions.

Agenda:

Day One:

Day Two:

Day one

We arrived after a fairly long drive from Phnom Penh. The road was good all the way and we stopped for a few tasty treats with the variety of local pop-up food stalls you can find along the way which vary with the season. Always an adventure!

Day One: Exploring Nature and Culture

Banan Mountain and Temple

We began our journey with a stop at Banan Mountain. Climbing the ancient steps to the top just before the heat of the mid-morning kicked in, we explored this well-preserved temple and enjoyed breathtaking views of the surrounding countryside. It was a peaceful and inspiring experience, providing a perfect start to the day.

Local Foods

During the day, we escaped the heat and headed to some local restaurants to indulge in some of Battambang’s culinary delights. We headed to White Rose Restaurant for the famous coconut cream dessert. We also tried the local rice noodles with pig stomach and the delicious dumpling noodle soup. The flavors were rich and authentic, offering a true taste of Battambang.

The Bat Cave and Phnom Sampov

Our adventure ended with a visit to Phnom Sampov which is located in the mountain above the Bat Cave, so a two-in-one destination for sure. Phnom Sampov itself offers stunning views and an opportunity to explore historical sites and temples. There is also plenty of monkeys to feed with bananas, but watch out, they are cheeky!

Just before dusk, we witnessed the mesmerizing spectacle of thousands of bats streaming out into the night sky. Thousands of bats come out in a never-ending stream to the backdrop of a beautiful setting sun, with the amazing – AND GIANT – rock-carved sculptures just meters away from the cave.

We then stayed the night in Battambang at Mlop Por, and there are some fantastic restaurants and bars which we visited that night. Check out more to do for Battambang nightlife here.

Day Two in Battambang: Unique Experiences

Banan Bamboo Train Resort or Bamboo Train

On the second day, we started with a ride on the traditional bamboo train. This unique experience is a fun way to see the countryside and feel the wind in your hair. Alternatively, you can visit the Banan Bamboo Train Resort for a more relaxed setting. Both options offer a memorable adventure.

The Blue Lagoon in Samlot District

Our second to last stop was the Blue Lagoon in Samlot District. This hidden gem is perfect for a refreshing swim. The crystal-clear waters and serene surroundings make it an ideal spot for relaxation. It’s a great way to unwind after two days of exploring.

Visit the thriving arts scene!

We ended our trip by visiting a few of the local art spaces around town. These change frequently and it’s best to check more about Battambang province guide here or upcoming events and search the area here.

Summary: Local cuisine to try in Battambang Province, Cambodia!

One of the highlights of my trip was indulging in Battambang’s local cuisine. Here are a few must-try dishes:

  • Coconut Cream Dessert at White Rose Restaurant: This local dessert is a delightful treat that you shouldn’t miss.
  • Rice Noodles with Pig Stomach: A traditional dish that offers a unique taste of Battambang’s culinary heritage.
  • Dumpling Noodle Soup: A comforting and flavorful dish perfect for any time of the day.

Summary: Must see places in Battambang Province, Cambodia!

Battambang is rich in history and local culture. Here are some must-see attractions and activities:

  1. The Bat Cave and Phnom Sampov : A visit to the bat cave at dusk is a mesmerizing experience as thousands of bats stream out into the night sky. Phnom Sampov offers stunning views and a chance to explore historical sites and temples.
  2. Banan mountain and Temple: Climb the ancient steps to the top of Banan Mountain and explore the well-preserved temple. The view from the top is breathtaking.
  3. Banan Bamboo Train Resort or Bamboo Train: Experience the traditional bamboo train ride, a fun and unique way to see the countryside. There’s also the Banan Bamboo Train Resort if you prefer a more relaxed setting.
  4. The Blue Lagoon in Samlot District: A hidden gem perfect for a refreshing swim. The crystal-clear waters and serene surroundings make it a perfect spot for relaxation.

Other Things to Do in the Area

If you have more time, there are several other activities and nearby places worth exploring:

  • Visit Local Markets: Battambang’s markets are vibrant and bustling with activity. It’s a great place to experience local life and shop for unique souvenirs.

Top Tips for Travel to Battambang Province, Cambodia

Traveling to Battambang from Phnom Penh can be done in several ways:

  1. Private Car or Rental Car: This offers the most flexibility and comfort. The journey takes around 5-6 hours from the capital or 2 hours from Siem Reap depending on traffic and road conditions.
  2. Bus: A popular choice is the VIP Bus, which costs around $32 for a round trip from Phnom Penh or less from Siem Reap or Poipet. I recommend taking the night bus to save on hotel costs and maximize your travel time. Local buses are a cheaper alternative, costing about $20 for a round trip.
  3. Train: For a more scenic and leisurely journey, consider taking the train. It takes around 8 hours to get there from Phnom Penh, providing a unique and picturesque experience of the Cambodian countryside.

Nearby Places to Visit from Battambang in Cambodia?

If you’re planning to extend your trip, consider visiting nearby Siem Reap:

  • Angkor Wat: Just a few hours from Battambang, Siem Reap is home to the world-famous Angkor Wat temple complex. It’s a must-see for anyone visiting Cambodia.
  • Tonle Sap Lake: Explore the largest freshwater lake in Southeast Asia and its floating villages.

My one-day trip to Battambang was an incredible journey filled with cultural experiences, delicious food, and stunning landscapes. Whether you’re exploring ancient temples, enjoying local cuisine, or simply soaking in the rich history, Battambang offers something for everyone. Pack your bags and set out on an adventure to discover the charm of this beautiful province.

Find out more about places nearby with our full destination map of Cambodia, and plan your next journey!

Quick facts and tips:

Traveled By:
Taxi, bus, train, private car
Location type:
Well accessible and catered to tourists in most main areas
Tourism attractions:
Attractions, eco & wellness, culture and history, beautiful scenery 


Agenda:
Day One:
The Bat Cave and Phnom Sampov 
Local Foods
Banan mountain and Temple: 

Day Two:
Banan Bamboo Train Resort or Bamboo Train
The Blue Lagoon in Samlot District
Explore the thriving arts scene

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Battambang Street Food Guide https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/battambang-street-food-guide/ https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/battambang-street-food-guide/#comments Thu, 07 Mar 2024 14:14:51 +0000 https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/?p=6911

When it comes to places to visit in Cambodia, Battambang is not only one of the most underrated, but also perhaps the biggest hidden gem. And there are a number of reasons for this, such as the amazing bamboo railway, as well as the Battambang street food scene, to name but two.

And it turns out that getting here is also fairly easy with the city connected by train to Phnom Penh, as well as by bus and boat to Siem Reap. It also makes the perfect stop for those heading further north on the bamboo train to Poipet, Bangkok and beyond. 

Why visit Battambang?

Battambang City is the capital of the province of the same name and is located in the north-east of Cambodia up towards the Thai border. Officially it is the third largest city within the Kingdom being beaten out by Phnom Penh, as well as Siem Reap.

Yet while it is the third biggest it is generally not seen as the third most touristically important within the country, with Sihanoukville, Koh Rong, Kep and now even Koh Kong getting higher billing.

Despite this though there is a whole heap to do in Battambang, with the city and province not only offering a number of sites related to Cambodian history, but also more contemporary sites. These include those related to the colonial history of the country, as well as to the Khmer Rouge and indeed the whole dark tourism genre.

One of the best things perhaps that one can do here though is the iconic bamboo railway that simply has to be seen to be believed.

The hotels here are also extremely plentiful, but because it is not so on the tourist radar tend to be very cheap with $30 being enough to get a good standard 3 star hotel with a pool.

Battambang Street Food

And if these were not already good enough reasons to visit then you also have the added caveat that Battambang offers some of the best street food available within the Kingdom.

Battambang much like other street food cities such as Kampot seems to be one that is firmly asleep during the day, but once the sun starts to set you are greeted by the sights, sounds and smell of the street food vendors starting their day. As expected and again much like other locales this is mainly centered around the river, in this case Battambang River.

As expected all the main Khmer street food groups are represented, such as lort cha (លតឆា), bbq, fried rice and pong tia kun (ពងទាកូន), but there are also some dishes completely unique to the city and region.

Top among these perhaps is Songvak (សង្វាក់). This is a sour Cambodian style fish cake which is wrapped firmly in a banana leaf. The dish can now be gotten throughout the country, but is generally considered at its best in Battambang. 

Alongside this is pong muan ang (ពងមាន់អាំង), which is grilled egg on a stick, that has been minority cured. This is then served with Cambodian pepper, salt and garlic. Simple, yet tasty and indeed very Battambang.

And of course should you require something a little more upmarket than mere street food then there are enough Khmer, Chinese and western restaurants to ensure you will not go hungry. 

Thankfully the same can indeed be said for if you get thirsty, with the nightlife of Battambang being small, but still quite eclectic. This includes locals knocking back Ganzberg, riverside bars and for those looking for a little more class a fast emerging sky bar scene.

Yes, it is hardly a metropolis, but it is still well worth a visit. With Battambang street food merely being some added icing to the cake. 

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Battambang’s Vibrant Art Scene: A Tourist’s Creative Paradise https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/battambangs-vibrant-art-scene-a-tourists-creative-paradise/ Thu, 22 Feb 2024 09:30:46 +0000 https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/?p=6275

While some travelers seek solace in sun-kissed beaches and others crave the tranquility of bird-watching amidst nature’s wonders, a unique breed of adventurers yearn for a different kind of experience – one that delves into the heart and soul of a destination. In the charming province of Battambang, Cambodia, art aficionados find their haven amidst a burgeoning community of local artists, where creativity knows no bounds and imagination reigns supreme.

At the helm of this creative renaissance is Poy Chhunly, affectionately known as “Pacquiao Khmer” for his striking resemblance to the legendary boxer. Hailing from Battambang province himself, Chhunly is on a mission to showcase the rich tapestry of local artwork and shed light on the challenges faced by artists in the region.

Through his innovative Art Tour Project, visitors are invited to embark on a journey of discovery, exploring the hidden gems of Battambang’s vibrant art scene. Every Sunday, eager travelers are treated to an immersive experience, venturing into the studios of five talented local artists and witnessing the magic unfold before their eyes.

From the intricate brushstrokes of Touch Khchao to the captivating murals of Chea Serey Roth, each stop on the tour offers a glimpse into the soul of Battambang’s creative spirit. As guests meander through the labyrinthine streets, they are regaled with tales of inspiration and insight, learning the stories behind each masterpiece and gaining a deeper appreciation for the art form.

But the Art Tour is more than just a showcase of talent – it’s a lifeline for struggling artists seeking to make ends meet in an uncertain world. By providing a platform for exposure and recognition, Chhunly hopes to empower local artists to pursue their passions and carve out a sustainable livelihood for themselves.

More than meets the eye

As tourists soak in the sights and sounds of Battambang’s bustling art scene, they also have the opportunity to immerse themselves in the culture and history of the region. From leisurely breakfasts with the artists to hands-on painting sessions, there’s no shortage of ways to connect with the local community and gain a deeper understanding of their way of life.

But the adventure doesn’t end there – for those eager to explore beyond the confines of Battambang, the surrounding area beckons with a wealth of attractions waiting to be discovered. From the majestic beauty of Phnom Sampov’s limestone caves to the serene tranquility of Ek Phnom Temple, there’s something for every traveler to enjoy.

For the adventurous at heart, a trek to the stunning cascades of Phnom Banan Waterfall promises an unforgettable experience, while history buffs will delight in exploring the ancient ruins of Wat Ek Phnom. And for those seeking a taste of authentic Cambodian culture, a visit to the bustling markets of Battambang town offers a sensory feast for the senses, with vibrant colors and exotic aromas at every turn.

As Battambang continues to emerge as a must-visit destination for art lovers and adventurers alike, the Art Tour Project stands as a shining beacon of creativity and innovation. So come, join us on a journey of discovery and inspiration, and let the magic of Battambang capture your heart.

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Phnom Penh Getaways – Battambang Guide https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/phnom-penh-getaways-battambang-guide/ Fri, 17 Nov 2023 06:20:40 +0000 https://cambodialifestyle.com/?p=3586

As part of Cambodia Lifestyle’s Phnom Penh getaways series, we present our Battambang Guide, featuring how to get here, where to stay and of course what to do in this Cambodian city.

When given time off it is very easy to tend to look to the near abroad, with flights to Thailand being $50 and buses to Saigon half of that, but this ignores some neat places you can check out within the Kingdom, such as Battambang. 

This fairly big city is often overlooked by both tourists and locals alike, which is a shame, because although it might not exactly be New York, when you scratch beneath the surface you will find a lot to love about the city.

How do you get from Phnom Penh to Battambang (and back).

We will not go too hell for leather on this subject, as we have already covered it another article, but it is really easy to get to the city in 5-8 hours.

Why the big difference you ask? Well if you want quick and efficient then you take the bus, but if you want slow and scenic, you take the train. Alas the train can and often is late on arrival, but this is no big deal as the journey is so picturesque.  

Alas there are no flights to Battambang yet, although an international airport has been mooted.

Sleeping in Battambang

There are a plethora of sleeping options in Battambang and they git pretty much every budget from gritty hostels all the way up to 5 star hotels and resorts, although you will not find a Hilton here….

The happy price point though seems to be at round the $30 mark, which covers resorts with pools. For this we checkout out a few places, but found the very centrally located, but not as easy on the tongue Vinear Sovannaphoum Resort to be the best. Great staff, nice location, lovely pool and overall ticks the boxes that make Cambodia Lifestyle happy.

Eating and drinking in Battambang

Before coming here you need to realize that Battambang is not Siem Reap, Phnom Penh, or even Kampot and you will not get the same range as you would in these cities.

Should you really need it there are some backpacker places, a curry house, lots of pizza and pseudo-western coffee joints. 

In reality though what Battambang lacks is also what gives it strength. The riverside here is where all of the action takes place and there is quite literally street food for as far as they eye can see, covering most everything you could dream of from Khmer cuisine. I might even go as far as to say that it has the biggest range of street food of any place within the Kingdom.

And of course if your tastes are higher grade, there are more upscale Chinese, Khmer and western restaurants, although far less than in the big cities.

Drinking here tends to be done in the restaurants, although there are a few Sky Bars offering cocktails from as little as $2,50, as well as Khmer joints along the river selling cheap beers to the masses. You will not go hungry or thirsty in Battambang.

What is there to do in Battambang

Of course the main reason to travel is to do “stuff” and Battambang has stuff. These include sites related to the Khmer Rouge, as well as nighttime trips to a bat cave and perhaps what the city is most famous for, the Bamboo train.

Said bamboo train is a makeshift train used to run along the train tracks of Battambang, which can be put together and taken apart with absolute ease, as you will find out whenever there is a “traffic jam”.

Yes it is a bit touristy, but it also offers one of the best opportunities to get truly out in the countryside, although you really should bring sunscreen….

Battambang guide to getting out….

There are regular buses back to Phnom Penh which leave at all hours, as well as a daily train going back in the other direction. Both of these options are about $8.

Should you wish to double down and continue your adventure though, even by rail then Battambang is just a few hours from Poipet, the border city with Thailand from where one can get a train, or bus all the way to Bangkok and beyond…

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How to take the train from Phnom Penh to Battambang https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/train-from-phnom-penh-to-battambang/ https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/train-from-phnom-penh-to-battambang/#comments Wed, 15 Nov 2023 05:48:40 +0000 https://cambodialifestyle.com/?p=3582

Cambodia might have a poor reputation when it comes to its railways, but in the last few years not only has it been greatly improved from a technical aide, but train journeys in Cambodia are now drawing in the tourists. Cambodia Lifestyle News went to check out the Phnom Penh to Battambang line. 

Whilst colonialism rightly so tends to get a bad rap, there are usually at least a few decent infrastructural projects left behind. Quite often these are train lines, such as in India by the British and Vietnam by the French, but in Cambodia not so much so.

As things stand there were just two lines on the Cambodian railway network, south to Sihanoukville and the coast, west to Battambang, Poipet and even Bangkok, as well the third most recent line which kind of offer s joyride around Phnom Penh.

And if you are looking for speed and value, all of them are inferior to a bus, but if you are looking for adventure, then it is the train all the way. 

Royal Cambodian Railways

Cambodia has 612 km (380 mi) of 1,000 mm (3 ft 3+3⁄8 in) metal gauge rail network that consist of the two aforementioned railway lines. Originally instituted in the 1930’s by the French, it was slowly updated with donations and acquisitions up until the late 1960’s, with grand plans for expansions.

Sadly this was not to occur as civil war ushered in Democratic Kampuchea and the murderous reign of the Khmer Rouge.

The Khmer Rouge were ousted in 1979, with rail services again beginning in the early 80’s but due to the continued civil war, these were often interrupted by guerrilla activities, even going into the late 90’s until the death of Pol Pot and the fall of the last Khmer Rouge state

In the early 90’s there wee even reports of trains with tourists being stopped by the rebels and even robbed old school stagecoach style, before revives completely stopped.

Things though started to improve after investment, and by 2016 the Phnom Penh to Sihanoukville line was reopened, while the Pursat and Battambang lines were reopened in 2018. 

Which takes us to now, with the Phnom Penh Railway station being heavily renovated and Royal Cambodian Railways now directions their attention to tourists, rather than casual commuters. 

How to take the train from Phnom Penh to Battambang

So, to the crux of the matter, how do you get the train from Phnom Penh to Battambang? Well it turns out quite easily, with Royal Cambodian Railways offering ticket purchases online that do not have to be “changed”, but come directly through e-mail. 

Prices are just $8, with them offering payment through most major cards (not Amex), as well as Wing. Alternatively one can just rock up and buy a ticket from the retro cubicle beside the track. 

Technically there is assigned seats on the train, but in practice this is not the case, with Cambodian Railways seemingly adding enough carriages to meet the demand of the day.

What is it like to take the train from Phnom Penh to Battambang?

Trains are a funny beast in that you are either into them, or you are not. This journey involves over 6 years of traveling a train that is not only extremely loud, but rocks you like a baby in a crib.

To me personally this is truly my happy place, with the ability to walk around, enjoy the scenery, poke your head out of the window and even get off at stops making it far superior to a cramped air-conditioned bus. 

And what do you do about food you ask? Well you have two choices, bring you own, or wait until Pursat, where the ticket inspector will even come earn you that you have 10 minutes to stop for food. Here you are treated to all the street food Cambodia classics, such as meat on a stick, as well as pork filled frogs.

So, while it might not be quick, efficient, or all that cost efficient, taking the train from Phnom Penh to Battambang has not lost any of its romance. 

You can check out the Royal Cambodia Railways website here.

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The rhythm of change and the rhythm of movement: Troy Campbell and the Battambang Beer Box Birds https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/the-rhythm-of-change-and-the-rhythm-of-movement-troy-campbell-and-the-battambang-beer-box-birds/ Tue, 14 Dec 2021 07:19:00 +0000 https://cambodialifestyle.com/the-rhythm-of-change-and-the-rhythm-of-movement-troy-campbell-and-the-battambang-beer-box-birds/

Sometimes people just make a spontaneous decision and find themselves living somewhere else; at least those of with wanderlust in their blood do.  A large subset of those who do are creative artists and have ways of sharing that story.  Artist and musician Troy Campbell, originally from Augusta, Georgia, is one such traveller.  

Last year Troy lit out from Phnom Penh for Battambang for a change of scenery, a city where he knew no one. He was able to get some painting done in between teaching English on-line and that work makes up an exhibition opening this week at Cloud. 

“The Battambang Beer Box Birds series was really a matter of what do I have on hand?” explained Troy.  “I’ve had experiences with cardboard boxes before, drumming on them at open mics and so on, it’s kind of a running theme.” 

A feature of Troy’s painting is the use of collected ephemera, from bus tickets to tourist guides to empty tea packets, that he picks up along the way and uses to add extra texture and to reflect the environment he is working within. 

“This is not just the standard painting on a box.  The boxes have been collaged over using material from my collections box.  There is a design, a geometry and a pattern, taking the Cambodia Beer logo, ‘the finest of European ingredients’ [and] not mocking it but doing something interesting design-wise.  While I’m not proud of it, I did go through a lot of boxes of beer in Battambang, so they were easily sourced.  There was a bit of an homage as well to ‘okay, I’m here, it’s part of my life’ and it’s indigenous material. And even finding paint was actually a challenge in Battambang.”  

If the drive is there, one figures out something.  Is there ink? Is there charcoal?  You might use turmeric or curry spices, anything that leaves a stain.  I once spent a year in my home town taking apart a baby grand piano and I got a very good show out of it featuring sculptures made out of grand piano parts.  And no pigment.”, he added.

Troy Campbell – Inspirations

Among the artists that Troy draws inspiration from is Sophea Pich, a Cambodian sculptor working with rattan and bamboo who studied at the Art Institute of Chicago.  “Beautiful sculptures; I’m a sucker for his work.  He made a great comment that rattan and bamboo are flexible and tough, just like the Cambodian people.  I guess you could say that about the cardboard beer boxes too.” 

New vistas, new experiences, new art?  “Yeah, travelling Troy.  I’ve toured with two different circuses, I’m used to that roustabout lifestyle and touring with bands.  I had to get a new passport recently. Myy old one was mostly filled up with Cambodian visas, that whole page, but also it was exclusively Asia.  I’ve never been to Europe or Australia.  Cambodia has been my second home for a while, it’s becoming my first home.”

Not to throw a Kerouac cliché but there is certainly an invigoration in a new place, even if it’s a terrible experience, like Jack’s in Mexico City.  I came to Cambodia initially for that reason. Whatever that impetus is to uproot and absorb some different light, whatever photosynthesis occurs.  There’s a complete lack of complacency when you’re in a new surrounding, new stimuli, new everything, where can I buy toothpaste?  All of a sudden I’m in Battambang.  It was a great fresh start, and I think that mobilised me. At that time I was filled with a new energy. It was a fertile time.  I enjoyed it. ” 

His most recent return to Cambodia, in January 2020, was something of an adventure.  “Ah, my great escape.  I was teaching in Nanning, China, which is just north of Hanoi, very close to the Vietnamese border.  This was still when things were very mysterious, before COVID had a name and I found myself under armed guard lockdown in the university I was working in.  I had to break my employment contract so I could leave, to get off campus.  Just to get off campus was a miracle, I had to show all sorts of officially stamped paperwork.  And then could I even get a cab?  Could I get on the subway?  Could I get to the airport?  These were unknowns.  I had a ticket, but could I fly?

“The answer could very easily have been no at any given step.  I spent the better part of the day in the international terminal at the Shenzhen airport, had three meals, and every single flight on the boards that day was to Phnom Penh or Sihanoukville.  It was scary.  Having left my campus I don’t know if I could have gone back.” 

Apart from catching Troy behind a drumkit on stages around Phnom Penh, you can view the Battambang Beer Box Birds series exhibition at Cloud, with the official opening on Wednesday 15th at 6.30 pm. 

Battambang, Cambodia
https://www.cambodialifestyle.com/battambang-province-guide/
+855 9 678 01791

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